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I had Joey slather me in sunscreen then grabbed my rented board and followed him into the shallow water. He was an excellent teacher so by the time I paddled out beside him to try my first wave I knew the rudiments.Despite being a big girl I’m very athletic and it only took me half a dozen tries before I was able to pop up on the board and actually ride a wave. I didn’t stay upright for more than a few seconds but I was stoked at my small success. Joey, who had been patiently sitting on his board watching me struggle, was too. He waved me the pinky finger and thumb ‘hang loose’ sign and we caught the next wave together. This one I rode in almost to the shore.I’m not trying to say here that I was Queen of the Surf, but I had a blast and did ride some good waves. Of course, I also made more than a few other surfers dive for cover because I wasn’t very good at cutting left or right. You could actually see the fear in their eyes as the big black chick bore down on them as they paddled. .." "That's the problem, Macer! You can't just go around fucking a perp cause you think they need it, as though it's some kind of path to self-realization!" Dickerson interrupted. The stern Captain had been in Gaius' position on numerous occasions. It isn't an easy town to work in for a maverick cop who plays by no one else's rules but his own. Every perp, every CITIZEN seems to be a bear-brute's wet dream. Big, hulky, hairy, either muscle gutted or six packed, blue or green eyes. The 280 lbs beast just couldn't help himself sometimes, which is probably the reason he was injured, forcing him to work a desk, sometimes sitting at it, sometimes on it, but more often than not under it. I suppose when you injure your leg in the field, you gotta adapt or be eaten by the beast of fate, so to speak. At 52 years old, age was catching up with him anyway, he no longer had the stamina or endurance to keep up with most younger men. He isn't some "spring chicken looking fellow", who looked 20 years.
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